While Chattanooga is seemingly anchored by elevated American-style restaurants and a burgeoning barbecue scene, one can also get a taste of the far-flung corners of the world. You probably have your favorite local Mexican and Indian restaurants, but there are also a number of stores dedicated to helping transplants and locals alike create such meals at home. I decided to venture into some to find out what's in stock and how they can help you turn dinnertime into something more.
Tongue, tacos and rice.Carniceria Loa #7
1500 Broad St. | 423-634-0565
Great for: Alternative beverages (think sodas with real sugar and a bevy of various coconut waters); spices; pinatas
Having lived not far from this Mexican grocery and frequenting La Altena restaurant, located next door, for a number of years, I was peripherally familiar with this place. But, though curious, I never had the occasion (or guts) to go in. In doing research for this piece, however, I came across Yelp reviews that not only sung its praises, but called up my courage.
Perhaps it was my wide-eyed curiosity at the meat case displays of animal products I'd never actually seen before - tripe, pickled pork rinds, chicken feet, pig hooves - but I got the feeling that the store doesn't get many "visitors." Still, that shouldn't dissuade you from going in, especially if you're in the market for shrimp, which they devote roughly a quarter of the case to, with various sizes and even whole shrimp. Though I will warn you, my years of Spanish in college were failing me and the language barrier seemed to exist on both sides.
The store is sprawling, with two distinct sections, plus a small eatery in the back. After perusing the selection of meat and vegetables that comprise one wing - and the truncated version of a Latin American Walmart, stocked with everything from special ceramic cookware and religious candles to bath products and an entire aisle of soda substitutes - I decided to put those Yelp reviews to the test. You order at the register just inside the door, not in the restaurant itself, which feels more like a cafeteria with its handful of tables and hot bar. The specials are written on a dry-erase board near the register, though standing items are listed on a chalkboard hanging on the eatery's back wall.
I wish I had tried to conjure up some Spanish, but I instead asked the clerk in English whether she had to guide many people through the store's offerings, and then asked her to do the same for me. In English that was better than my college Spanish ever was, she recommended the pupusas, a special that day. Having already seen lengua (tongue) on the regular taco menu, I decided to go for it, and ordered two tacos as well. Along with our two soft drinks, two bottles of never-before-seen varieties of hot sauce and a brick of guava paste, which I'd first tried in pupusas from Conga Latin Food during my Eat Sip Walk tour, my total was only $16.
The tacos are street style: doubled-up corn tortillas stuffed with the filling of your choice and the option of cilantro, onions and several varieties of homemade sauces that all packed major heat. The pork was a little dry, but with the addition of condiments, I didn't mind. Sadly, something must have been lost in translation, as instead of pupusas, I received rice, though it was very rich tasting and satisfying. And safe. I couldn't bring myself to bite into the lengua taco, so I unsheathed my plastic fork and popped one of the cubed pieces into my mouth before I had enough time to back down. I am not very adventurous when it comes to meat and am very particular about textures. I was surprised at the flavor, which tasted much like any stewed meat, but even more so by the consistency. It had a velvety quality and virtually melted in my mouth. Had it been shredded, or even just contained within a dish, I could've eaten the whole thing. Though I'd probably opt for lunchtime, when I assume the items on the hot bar are even fresher.
The frozen paneer makhani was a hit.Kitchen Spices Indian and Asian Grocery
7601 East Brainerd Road | 423-551-4999
Great for: Alternative flours and noodles; frozen Indian meals; rice; beans; spices
If I was a vegetarian, or even just lived closer to East Brainerd , I'd make this my first stop when buying groceries.
For those with dietary restrictions, such as vegetarians and gluten-intolerants, it offers a dizzying variety of flours. I had to Google half of them. For example, there's moong flour, made from lentils; singoda flour, comprised of water chestnuts; and jowar flour, a sorghum-based variety. And that's just a small sampling. There is also a sizable selection of noodles, almost none of which are wheat-based. I ended up picking up a pack of vermicelli made from peas and green beans. If rice was a standard side dish for me, this store would definitely be worth the drive. Lining the center aisle are 10- to 20-pound bags for under $20. Though mostly basmati, there were other varieties as well. Similarly, if beans were a main protein source for me, I'd mix it up with the obscure options that added color to the shelves.
The store is small, but packs a lot in, though the Asian section seemed small. I couldn't tell if the few people shopping during my trip did all their grocery shopping there or just picked up the essential ingredients they couldn't find elsewhere, but I definitely got the sense that it is a neighborhood grocery, and there were shopping carts out front that seemed to support this (and presumably those large bags of rice).
I took my time to explore and Google ingredients, but the gentleman behind the counter was kind and more than willing to help. We'd spoken several times on the phone already, when I'd called to discuss the home-cooked meals he offers with a day's notice. However, after doing some research on popular vegetarian Indian dishes (I've really only eaten the ubiquitous lunch buffet lineup) and rattling off my selections, he gently guided me to the frozen section, where those items existed in one- to two-person quantities. Essentially catering, his personally made meals are meant for a crowd. For those looking to do it themselves, I noticed a sign behind the register when checking out that advertised meat prices. I didn't see it in the store, so I'm not sure whether it's special ordered or kept in the back, but among the options were goat, which I've not seen elsewhere, as well as lamb and oxtail.
I opted for the easy route, and since freezers make up a third of the store, I'm probably not the only one. I grabbed a single serving of a go-to meal from my previous lunch buffet experiences - paneer makhani, an entrée with cubes of firm cheese similar in texture and weight to tofu and swimming in tandoori-style sauce - and a dish that had surfaced during my research as being a crowd favorite: kofta curry, essentially veggie dumplings in what is described as gravy but looked similar to that tandoori sauce. The paneer makhani tasted very similar to what I've had in restaurants, though the cheese was slightly firmer. While the kofta looked to be the same sauce, it was spicier, and I was glad I hadn't doused the rice I'd made with it. Rice seemed the natural accompaniment, even more so thanks to a packet of seasoning I'd picked up, a blend of allspice, coriander, turmeric, red chili, black pepper, cardamom, cumin, bay leaves, galangal (described as having a piney citrus flavor), lime lemon, ginger, fennel and mustard. The mixture leads with the strong flavor of allspice, but ends with a lightness I presume comes from the lime lemon. I'll definitely use it to flavor chicken, potatoes and to maybe even add something to burgers.
Again, the prices surprised me. All told, I spent roughly $20, with an average price point of $3. Though you can't put a price on experience.